![]() ![]() “It occupies a small space but provide a rather big build volume,” its manufacturer Tiertime rightly say. As far as desktop 3D printers go, the Cetus3D printer thus offers an excellent print volume to machine volume ratio. This also makes it one of the lightest metal-bodied 3D printers out there, weighing just 3.2 kg (or 7lb) – light enough to be very portable.īut despite that low weight, the Cetus3D still has an respectable build volume of 180 x 180 x 180mm (7 x7 x 7 inches), out of a total machine dimension of 260 x 260 x 280 mm (10.2 x 10.2 x 11inches). The Cetus3D features an aluminum body that has been brought down to just six separate modules: three axis modules, one electronic module, one print bed module, and one extruder module. This also pushes down costs, with the Cetus3D printer starting as low as $199 on Kickstarter.Īnd when we say minimalist, that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Best described as minimalist, this 3D printer doesn’t feature any unnecessary extras and simply focuses on the essentials – providing an open, high quality 3D printing experience. That question has just been highlighted by a brand-new desktop 3D printer called the Cetus3D, by the Chinese 3D printer manufacturer Tiertime Technology (makers of the Up! series of 3D printers) from Beijing. As a result, destop 3D printers are increasingly starting to look alike, aside from a few little extras. In response to growing competition, many desktop 3D printer developers tend to incorporate many cool features and gadgets, while others focus entirely on plug-and-play abilities or software. They make it so easy to be sure it’s calibrated now after disassembling the printer.The market for desktop 3D printing is getting a bit crazy, and it can be very hard to find exactly what you want. The printing results are now much better, and I’m no longer forced to use rafters.Ī big thanks to wbvreeuwijk for making the calibration brackets. ![]() I could make it even better, but it is close enough for me. So now I have a difference of 0.1 instead of 2.0 when calibrating. ![]() While continuing to hold it in place, I tightened the screws. Using the supplied hex wrench, I loosened the screws while holding down the arm so that both the printed alignment stands where touching the print bed. The first leftmost screws are for holding a plastic bracket, but the next two are the ones you need to loosen to be able to adjust the Y-axis. Instead of removing the whole arm, I just used a screwdriver to pry out the size of the axis closest to the Z-arm. Just make sure to use a pen to mark the exact location of the arm to be able to assemble it as it was before. So I turned the printer around and removed the three screws that hold the Y-axis rails to the Z-axis tower. They fit snuggly on the Y-axis linear rails.Īfter checking, I noticed the 2mm gap on the right side of the alignment stands. I just needed to move the print plate to the center and attach the calibration arms to the axis after removing the print head. I found a stand on Thingiverse, so I printed two of them. But I finally found an easy way of fixing the Y-axis adjustment. ![]() There is a calibration feature inside the program, but you need to always print with a raft to get your prints level, with the accompanied wastage of PLA plastic. If I zeroed out the nozzle on the left side, the right side was 2.0 lower. Unfortunately, the calibration quality from the factory was terrible, which is unfortunate on such a superb printer. It’s a cheap printer for around $300, but it has linear rails and can give excellent results. I’ve been busy the last couple of weeks, learning all the ins and outs of my new Cetus3D 3D-printer. ![]()
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